Ponte Chiodo - bridge leading to our guest house of the same name

Ponte Chiodo - bridge leading to our guest house of the same name

Even though I thought I was  organized, somehow I had forgotten to bring the piece of paper that had the directions to our guest house in Venice. At this point we’re 23 hours without sleep and trudging down a main tourist drag (Strada Nuova) against the current of a  sea of people.

It was magical

Nonetheless, it was magical We were giggling with delight because even though we were tired and lost, it was just so exciting to be in Venice. Everywhere we looked, there was something stunningly beautiful.  We  walked around for an hour trying to find our guest house. I had the address and phone number, so you’d think I wouldn’t have any problems. Not so.

Not a soul knew where 3749 Ponte Chiodo was

First of all, no-one knew where 3749 Ponte Chiodo was. I learned later that  addresses in Venice do not match up with the streets. I know it sounds bizarre, but there is no street called Ponte Chiodo, even though our address was 3749 Ponte Chiodo.

It turns out Ponte Chiodo is a tiny little bridge that arrives at the front door of the guest house. I’m talking tiny tiny – like a Japanese garden bridge. The little bridge is the Ponte Chiodo, which means “nail bridge,” and the guest house is 3749 Ponte Chiodo.  It’s not a street name so obviously it’s not going to be on any street map.

I do feel obliged to note that the Ponte Chiodo guest house proprietor emailed me several times prior to  my departure to remind me to print the map from the website. If I had that map with me we wouldn’t have had any problems finding the guest house.

And we never did figure out how to use a pay phone in Italy

We asked at least a half dozen people in the street and shops without any luck. So then we thought, “Well, we have the phone number. Let’s try phoning.” Of course, that involves figuring out a foreign phone and how many of the digits you put in.  We tried every button and every combination of numbers with prefixes and simply could not get it to work. (I wish I’d watched this video on  how to use a pay phone in Italy before I left for my trip.)

So the adventure continued. I went into a little snack bar, and that’s when our luck turned. Go here to read about the kindness of strangers in Venice.

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nanaimo-airport-building

Nanaimo airport

It’s a long way from Nanaimo to Venice, and I wanted to make the journey as fast as possible.  Alas, my chauffeurs had a different idea.

I really should be grateful to them for hauling me out of bed at 3:30 for a 6:10 a.m. flight out of Nanaimo, which is only 30 minutes away by car. But I was annoyed. All I wanted was another half hour sleep. If it had been left up to me, for a 6:10 flight I would have slid out of bed at  4:20, left house 4:30, arrived airport by 5:15.  Result: an extra FIFTY MINUTES OF SLEEP.

But how can you complain when someone volunteers to drive you to the airport in the middle of the night? I’m not sure I would do that. For anybody. Quite frankly, if asked I would happily pull out $100 from my wallet, hand it to them and say, “Please, take a taxi. You’d be doing me a favor. Take my money and take a taxi.”

My chauffeurs arrived at the bottom of our driveway at 4:10, all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. In the car everyone’s speculating about how long the drive will take. Everyone except me, of course. “How long will it take? Do you think it will take an hour? Oh, do you think if we hit all the lights right we might do it in 50 minutes?” I’m sitting there thinking, “No, you fools, it’s going to take 30 minutes tops.”

And yup, I was right.

Nanaimo airport

Nanaimo airport

We get to the airport at 4:40 and there aren’t even staff there yet. We are the very first people at the airport. They don’t come until a much more reasonable hour, considering the first flight out is 6:10.

The good news is, once the staff arrived we were the first people to be checked in and through security.  That was a real novelty for me. I have never been first in any lineup, never mind an airport.  I liked it and I’m grateful to my chauffeurs  for getting us there early, giving me a brand new experience of being first in line at an airport check-in. My first novel experience of the trip.

I had been worried about security because we were carrying on all our luggage. I had packed in accordance with the Transportation Security Administration list of prohibited items, but I’d been hearing horror stories from lots of people that even though they packed according to the rules, they still got things confiscated.

I was worried about my tweezers and my nail clippers and also my little child-sized scissors, which I wanted because I planned to do some collage while I’m away. I really wanted those little scissors. But as my husband very sensibly pointed out to me, those are nickel and dime items. If they got confiscated at security, no big deal. We just go to a drug store in Italy and buy new ones. He’s absolutely right, but as it turned out, no problem.

The security people at Nanaimo Airport were lovely and friendly, incredible if you consider the hour of the morning. They looked at our bags on this really cool x-ray thing. It’s all in color. I would have loved to get a printout of my luggage – a wonderful thing to put in my journal as one of our first visuals of our trip. Of course, I didn’t want to rock the boat so I kept my mouth shut.

We got through security with ease and went into the waiting area. That’s when I started to relax.  After a short little 15 minute hop over to Vancouver Airport we only had an hour to wait for the next flight.  Just enough time for a Starbucks cappuccino and a newspaper.

The flight from Vancouver from Toronto was fast, four and a half hours. I enjoyed watching a couple of movies on my own little movie screen.  I made sure to get up and walk around, do some stretches. We arrived in Toronto in pretty good shape.

Toronto to Frankfurt

About two hours to wait in Toronto, so we had time to get a bite to eat. Then we were on the plane again and off to Frankfurt. That was our long haul – about seven hours. I hoped that I would be able to sleep because I knew that once we got to Venice it would be morning local time.

Alas, no sleeping. I had one little 20-minute dozy off-type nap. It helped a bit, but basically we were up all night. Just really can’t sleep on planes very easily because there’s a lot going on. We had a fair amount of turbulence, so every time the captain would come on with this incredibly loud announcement and tell us there was turbulence, as though we couldn’t figure that out.

Of course, we’re on an Air Canada flight to Germany, so they’re saying it in three languages. First English. So *bing bong*. The announcement then comes on; he says it in English. Then *bing bong*. He says it in French. Then you think it’s over and *bing bong*. They come on and say it in German. Futile to try to sleep through that.

So I did what every kid dreams of, I stayed up all night and three or four  movies.  One was an Italian psychological thriller that had some great scenery of Venice in it. That was exciting since I was going to Venice, and just listening to the Italian language with subtitles was a real thrill.

Frankfurt to Venice

At our gate in Frankfurt airport

At our gate in Frankfurt airport

Finally, we arrive in Frankfurt. By this time, we’ve been up for 18 hours or so. Frankfurt was the only bit of stressful traveling. First of all, it’s a huge airport and apparently they made a mistake and let us off in the neighbouring town because we had to walk a really, really long way.

We need to go through customs because, of course, we’d landed in a new country. Customs was your usual thing, a ton of people all clustered in this cattle-like enclosure and nobody really knowing where they’re supposed to be going because it’s in a different language. The short lineup and the fast lineup and you’re trying to figure out if you can get yourself into a faster moving lineup, etc.

Being a keener, I’m all excited to practise a new language. I knew “danke schön” was “thank you” in German. I heard people saying “good morning” as “guten morgen.” I thought that sounded really cool. So I got myself all primed up to say “guten morgen” and “danke schön” to the customs guy.

When I finally get up to customs, the guy looks at me, I hand him my passport and I say, enthusiastically, “Guten morgen!” He looks up at me with a bland expression and then a tiny crease of a smile touches the edges of his lips. I thought, “I wonder what my accent sounds like or if I even have the right words.” Then he hands it back and I say, “Gesundheit!,” and I realized that was not the right word. Before I could correct myself, the next person was behind me and it was time to move on. Maybe I gave him a bit of a smile that morning.

Once through customs I figured we were away to the races, but no. Now we have to go through security. That was a bit confusing. Signage was not good,  you’re not really sure where you’re supposed to be going. You go down these stairs and you get to the bottom of the stairs. The signage shows you for Gates B . . . you go here and B . . . you go there, etc. Then it just had a big A. We were looking for A38. It didn’t seem to have any specifics about where you went, what direction to go for any A’s. I could only see one place that had security, so I made the assumption it was all A’s went to that security place.

We got in line for that. These were mega lineups, probably about six or eight lineups to go through these security places. It was all really crowded. There were barriers and things and there wasn’t enough room for the people and everyone was confused. Then this forbidding-looking woman with a really, really short, manly haircut comes up and shouts something about A’s and B’s going somewhere else. She said it in English but with such a heavy accent that absolutely nobody knew what she was saying.

We didn’t have any idea what she was talking about. That made H a bit stressed because he figured we should go find out from her what she was saying. There was no way I was going to approach that woman.  I decided, “No, I’m staying in the lineup I’m in. My intuition tells me we can get to our plane by staying here.”

Sure enough, we finally got up to the security thing. The security people were really friendly and helpful.  I had my little red-handled child scissors in my regulation little clear bag. I wondered if there would be any problem and sure enough, she said, “Do you have scissors?” She saw them in the picture thing.  I pointed them out.

She took them out, and with an air of hoping they would be OK, she measured them and pronounced them OK. She seemed delighted with the fact that I could keep my scissors. Her attitude gave me such a boost at that point in our long journey.

Through security, over to our waiting area and time to board. We’re now 21 hours into our journey with no sleep. We are leaving Frankfurt Airport onto our hour and 15 minute flight to Venice. So incredibly exciting. I looked out the window the entire way.

First of all, it was rural farmland. I was taken with the fact that there weren’t any trees. I realized that must be why German people, in particular, love seeing all the forest when they come to British Columbia.  Then we got over a rugged mountain range, which I’m assuming were the Alps. Then, before I knew it, the Alps went away and H  said, “Look.” He pointed and I could see water and see the familiar fish shape of the city of Venice!

View of Venice from airplane

View of Venice from airplane

I just think it was one of the most exciting moments in my life. My first thought was, “It’s much smaller than I thought it would be.”  I took lots of pictures of the island out of the window of the airplane.  It’s great to get an aerial view of the place you’re going to because it helps you get oriented.

Venice airport

Venice airport is relatively small and manageable. Although Venice is not a big city, they do get a lot of tourists, so the airport needs to be big enough to handle all the visitors. The population of Venice is actually only 65,000,  although at one time, at the height of the Venetian city-state, there were apparently millions of people, but not all living on the little island. They had conquered lots of lands around them. But today there’s 65,000 residents and 15 million visitors a year. That’s incredible.

We saw a good portion of those 15 million in our first hour in Venice. We took a bus from the airport down to the main transportation hub by the train station. There were a couple of cruise ships that were disgorging their — it must have been thousands of people. I wouldn’t call it a stream or even a river of people. I would call it a sea of people was moving across the parking lot, over the bridge and into Venice.

I must make a comment about the bus that we took. Walking through  Venice Airport we were thinking we were going to take the water bus that takes you from the airport dock into the city. It’s a scenic route, and takes about an hour. It apparently is very nice to enter or leave the city on this boat.

According to our guidebook, the water bus dock is an eight-minute walk from the entrance to the airport down to the ocean. That seemed OK, but when we exited the airport we walked smack into an almost full bus that was an express bus into the city. It was just too perfect. The driver was there; he spoke English.

We handed him a 20 Euro bill and he stuck it in the machine, gave us change, gave us tickets, told us in English what to do when we got to the station (buy a ticket for the water bus that takes you right to your hotel). We get on and get the last two seats on the bus.

The bus ride took about 15 minutes. It goes  through a semi-rural area, farmland interspersed with car dealerships and rental car places.  Then there’s a long causeway that connects to the island of Venice.

Beside the main ACTV ticket booth in Venice

Beside the main ACTV ticket booth in Venice

The bus drops you off at this big parking by the train station. It’s an ultra-touristy area that’s got a large ticket booth for the vaporetto (water bus).   It’s called the ACTV and functions as the local bus line. Just like anywhere, except these buses go on water!

There was a big crowd in front of the ACTV ticket booth, but it was easy to figure out what to do. I already knew that I was looking for a 72-hour pass for the local transportation.

First vaporetto ride

So H got in line to get that.  Meanwhile, I took a bunch of pictures. Seven minutes later we have our three-day passes and we go down and find out that we’re supposed to be on the #1 vaporetto. Away we go!

First vaporetto (water bus) ride

First vaporetto ride in Venice

One thing I found really surprising about the vaporetto is if you’re standing or you’re making your way to a seat, you have to watch your footing. When it pulls out from the dock, it really rolls from side to side. If somebody had mobility problems or wasn’t very steady on their feet, say an elderly person or somebody with a lot of stuff in their arms, they could fall down. So be aware of that.

I knew we were supposed to be getting off at the Ca’ D’oro stop, and I knew that our guest house was only a couple of blocks from the Ca’ D’oro.  Sounds simple, right? Not so fast…finding our guest house in Venice is a story in itself.

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Street in Pienza, Italy

Street in Pienza, Italy

Pienza is a beautiful little Renaissance town in Tuscany with a fascinating history.  It’s located between Montepulciano and Montalcino, and is less than an hour’s drive or bus ride from Siena.

As a perfectly preserved Renaissance town and a UNESCO world heritage protected site, Pienza is a favorite for period film locations. Director Franco Zeffirelli filmed the 1968 film Romeo and Juliet in Pienza, and the town was  also used in the movie The English Patient.

What to see in Pienza

When you get to Pienza you’ll definitely want to see the Piazza Pio.  Also, check out the Piazza Piccolomini, which was the Pope’s residence and was lived in by descendants of the Piccolomini family until 1968.  Of course, there’s the Duomo (cathedral).  When you walk behind the Duomo, you get fantastic views of the whole Val d’Orcia (Orcia Valley).  A tourist office in Pienza is right in the main piazza.  During summer months, you can get free guided tours of the town.

View of Val D'Orcia seen from Pienza

View of Val D'Orcia seen from Pienza

On the main street, there are lots of food stores that specialize in gourmet products from Tuscany such as wine, honey, and the local pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheese.  You can do cheese tastings and wine tastings at a number of shops.

A good place to have lunch in Pienza is the popular Trattoria Latte di Luna or the reasonably priced Del Falco (Piazza Dante Alighieri 7, phone 0578-748551 closed on Fridays).

It only takes a couple of hours to see most of Pienza.  It’s a pretty small place. But if you’ve got more time to spare, you can stay overnight in a charming B&B in Pienza and take your time soaking up the Renaissance  atmosphere.

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Garden room at Locanda S. Agostino in Lucca

Garden room at Locanda S. Agostino in Lucca

With 26/28 five star reviews on TripAdvisor.com, Locanda S. Agostino appears to be a sure bet for a wonderful place to stay in Lucca.

One reviewer admits that she would “prefer to keep this little gem of a place all to myself – but I just can’t, as I think that everyone should have the chance to have as perfect a time as we had at the Locanda”.

Another guest writes:

We stayed one night in the garden room earlier this month. Locanda is almost like a “stealth” hotel – the outside of the building is quite anonymous, but the interior is fabulous, with interesting art and beautiful decor. The garden room was absolutely gorgeous, with lovely touches like a vase of fresh pink peonies on the dresser. The furniture is antique, and the atmosphere reminiscent of the napoleonic era. The bathroom was lovely, hidden in the wall, with really great olive oil toiletries. You can borrow movies and music from the main hallway. Breakfast out on the little terrace was really good, and beautifully presented. Sarah did her utmost to make us feel welcome and recommended different bars and restaurants as well as places to see in the vicinity… I would definitely go back to stay at Locanda S. Agostino. And as soon as possible!

Rates for a double room are between 130 – 180 Euros a night, depending on season. Check out the photos on the Locanda S. Agostino website.

Piazza S. Agostino, 3
55100 Lucca (LU), Italy
+39 0583 467884

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Ultimate Map of Venice

Ultimate Map of Venice

Calli, Campielli e Canali is generally agreed to be the ultimate map of Venice. With this book in hand, you will be able to find even the most out-of-the-way places in Venice.

However, it is distinctly more difficult to carry than the average map, because it is in fact a true book of 226 pages (22 x 23 centimeters). In addition to being a explicitly detailed street guide, it also contains descriptions (in English) of all significant private and public buildings, dates of construction, family, and architectural style.

For the average traveller, this book is probably overkill (Calli, Campielli e Canali is as labyrinthine as the city itself). But for anyone planning a long stay or who wants to travel “more deeply” into Venice, Calli, Campielli e Canali is the map book to get.

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Latte di Luna restaurant in Pienza, Italy

Latte di Luna restaurant in Pienza, Italy

Looking for restaurant recommendations for the hilltowns of Tuscany? I’ve gleaned some insider tips from Ferenc Mate’s delightful memoir A Vineyard in Tuscany.

Mate loves food and wine with a passion. While renovating his dream house in Tuscany and starting his own small winery, Mate enjoyed meals at these favorite restaurants:

Trattoria Latte di Luna in Pienza

Most of the reviews I’ve read stress that Latte di Luna serves simple, home cooked meals.  You won’t find anything fancy, but you will find tasty local specialties at  reasonable prices.  Very popular so make reservations. See photo at right and read  slowtravel.com reviews.

Trattoria La Torre in Monte Oliveto Maggiore

Although Mate recommends this restaurant, I found mixed reviews online. On the positive side, travellers Jane and Ken say “If you visit the abbey (which you should), then plan on having a very nice lunch in the ristorante. We so enjoyed it there.”

But TuscanHouse warns “Ristorante La Torre at the Abbey is a big operation to accommodate the frequent busloads of tour groups and sometimes fails to give good food or good service”.

Closed on Tuesdays
53020 MONTE OLIVETO MAGGIORE
Tel. +39 577 – 707022

Trattoria da Mario in Buonconvento

Buonconvento is a lovely small town and not very touristy. Mate mentions eating at Trattoria da Mario in Buonconvento, and apparently he is not alone in his enjoyment of this restaurant. A report on slowtravel.com has this to say about the eatery:

We came back and had dinner at Da Mario in Buonconvento. I will say no more than Da Mario is a gem of a local ristorante with great ambiance (mangiare a fuori) and dynamite food and is considered a secret find by the local inhabitants of this working village.

Via soccini, 60
53022
Buonconvento
Tel.
0577.806157

La Tagliola restaurant

Trattoria La Tagliola in Arcidosso

Trattoria La Tagliola in Arcidosso

On TripAdvisor.com the one review for this restaurant proclaims “Migliore ristorante ad Arcidosso”. I don’t speak Italian but it’s safe to assume  this means something along the lines of “best restaurant in Arcidossa”. The reviewer gave it the highest rating – 5 stars.

On Trattoria La Tagliola’s website you can see more photos of the restaurant interior, along with a sample menu.

Bagnoli, Arcidosso
Tel. +39 0564 967351

Trattoria Sciame in Montalcino

Located just a block from the fortress, Trattoria Sciame in Montalcino is a small restaurant with a big reputation. Many independent travellers recommend Trattoria Sciame, as do the big guide books.  Frommer’s writes:

You’ll be lucky to wrest one of the seven tables (crammed into Sciame’s small, modern dining room) away from the devoted locals who fill it with clamorous chatter almost every night. The food here is firmly cucina casalinga. You needn’t decide on an appetizer because everything is gathered together in the antipastone misto. Top honors go to both the pinci al cinghiale (fat spaghetti in a sauce of tomatoes and wild boar) and the zuppa di fagioli (a bean-and-cabbage soup poured over bread, with a red onion slice over it). Afterward try a pollo arrosto (roast chicken or guinea hen) or the scaloppina agli asparagi (veal scallop with wild asparagus). For dessert, order the cantucci e ossi di morti con moscadello (almond cookies and brittle, hollow “bones of the dead” cookies with sweet white dessert wine).

Prices are reasonable – about $7 – $14 for each course.  Closed Tuesdays, the last week of July and the month of February. Reservations strongly recommended.

Via Ricasoli 9
53024 Montalcino
0577 848-017

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Entrance to La Taverna Nello in Siena, Italy

Entrance to La Taverna Nello in Siena, Italy

Looking for a Tuscan cafe that serves vegetarian food in Siena, Italy?  I’ve got a great suggestion for you.

Nello La Taverna

Nello La Taverna is sometimes referred to as La Taverna di Nello.  This is a Tuscan restaurant that serves a good number of vegetarian dishes.  It’s on the Via del Porrione 28 and the phone number is 0577-289043 (reservations recommended).  If you’re trying to find this lovely Siena restaurant, it’s on a narrow, stone-covered street very close to the Piazza del Campo (the big piazza).  We discovered that the easiest way to find La Taverna di Nello is to approach it from the Piazza del Campo. To orient yourself,  stand facing the tall clock tower and then look for the little street just to your left that leads off the Piazza del Campo. The restaurant is just a few doors down the street.

We visited La Taverna di Nello on a warm evening in October. It’s got an  inviting atmosphere with brick walls, racks of wine bottles and interesting orginal artwork.  The decor and menu has a bit more of an “upscale” feeling than your typical Tuscan family-run restaurant.

Specialties include great salads made with the common Tuscan ingredient, radicchio, and other vegetarian delights. How does ravioli in a velvet creamy artichoke sauce sound (14 Euros)? Or crepes stuffed with ricotta cheese and fresh truffles (20 Euros).

The food was lovely and the service from our English-speaking waiter was kind and attentive.

There are rave reviews from other customers on the Nello La Taverna website (note: the restaurant’s website seems to be down), such as this one:

La Taverna Nello in Siena, Italy

La Taverna Nello in Siena, Italy

When I visit Siena, I always make sure I include a meal at Nello La Taverna in the Via Del Porrione, a small side street off the campo. They make the most wonderful Porcini Tagliolini which arrives as fresh egg noodles folded with the fresh porcini mushrooms. The pungent, gutsy flavours of these mushrooms require only a dash of the best olive oil and perhaps a clove or two of crushed garlic to bring out the best they have to offer and at this time of year, you will find them folded through risotto, a multitude of pasta and even char-grilled whole and dressed with a little balsamic. We also enjoyed the local pasta called ‘pici’ which is a kind of roughly extruded, thick spaghetti, served simply with diced, briefly stewed tomatoes and basil.

Another customer wrote:

Ristorante Nello La Taverna, just off Il Campo, is one of the best Tuscany cafes. We had gnocchi with bolognese sauce and the gnocchi was to die for! They melt in your mouth! Also had great wine and deserts (puff pastry stuffed with ice cream and hot chocolate sauce). He is very friendly and the atmosphere is charming.

Summary

Highly recommended restaurant in Siena, Italy. Ristorante Nello La Taverna, Via dei Porrioni 28, tel. 0577 289043  Closed on Sundays.  Map

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antica-torre-siena-italy

Room at Antica Torre

If you just read reviews of Antica Torre hotel in the Italy travel guidebooks, you’d be forgiven for thinking it would make a great place to stay in Siena, Italy.

For example, both the Frommer’s guidebook and the EyeWitness Guide to Florence and Tuscany provide glowing reviews of Antica Torre hotel in Siena:

From the Frommer’s guidebook:

Antica Torre is a restored 17th Century tower within the city walls of Siena. It’s a ten-minute walk from Piazza del Campo. Tall and graceful, the tower sits on top of the century’s old potter’s workshop that is now the breakfast room. Take a stone staircase to the small but comfortable guestrooms, each with some Tuscan antiques, iron filigree headboard and marble floors. Try to get one of the accommodations on the top floor for a panoramic view of the medieval city and the rolling Tuscan hills. It costs 90 Euros a night and there is parking on the street nearby.

Antica Torre hotel Siena, Italy

Antica Torre hotel Siena, Italy

Sounds delightful, but not so quick

Sounds delightful and good value for Siena, right? But wait, check out the “real-life advice” on TripAdvisor:

We stayed there for a single night. It was OK, but I am glad we did not spend too much time there.

- location is good, about 5 min walk from main square in Siena
- room is quite small but it’s actually the bathroom that feels very very small – and while it has recent fixtures, it does not feel terribly clean
- if you stay at the top (as we did), going up and down is quite challenging

The one employee we interacted with was the most clueless and least helpful person we met in Italy. In general, it was an ok experience but if I return to Siena I’ll first look for something else.

Some people liked it…

The most complimentary review on TripAdvisor put Antica Torre at a 4/5 with these comments:

My partner and I stayed for one night at the Antica Torre so that we could spend a day in Siena. We found both our room and the hotel itself to be very well-kept and charming. It’s in a pleasant neighborhood of Siena that is close to all of the sights but also quiet and residential (I stepped out early in the morning and was pleasantly surprised to see real people going to work, as opposed to other tourists, which seems to be the norm in Tuscany).

The hotel appears to be family run, and the main proprietor was very friendly and called us a cab the next morning so that we could go pick up our rental car in the Siena suburbs. At 113 euros per night the hotel in not exactly a bargain for budget travellers (we stayed at places in Florence for less), but what you are paying for is a clean space and a bit of charm and it is definitely worth it!

On a final note, the hotel is definitely not a good option for the elderly or disabled- I had to carry our very large suitcase up three flights of narrow stairs to reach our room.

Antica Torre hotel, Siena

Antica Torre hotel, Siena

But just as many didn’t like it…

What follows is not the most scathing TripAdvisor review about Antica Torre (I usually ignore the most scathing as possibly written by an unreasonable person), but it is representative of those who were disappointed by Antica Torre.

Two nights in this hotel was plenty. It’s recommended in some guidebooks, but I’m sure they haven’t been there in a while. We knew we’d have to haul our own bags up the stairs. Okay. The bathroom had blackish mold on the wall. The sheets and towels seemed clean. The a/c worked. The view out the window was nice. Location was okay. I think the bathroom was once a closet or small hallway — access was through a folding door. Maybe other rooms are better.  I’d pass next time.

I don’t know about you, but I’m too picky about accommodation to risk staying in a place described by several reviewers as just “OK” and as having “blackish mold on the wall”.

The moral of this story

Don’t just buy an Italy travel guide and trustingly follow the recommendations. Use travel guidebooks as a starting point but double-check at places like TripAdvisor.

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water bus in veniceAnother Italy travel tip is to purchase a multiday pass for the vaporetto  (water bus) in Venice. It’s a great deal that many tourists aren’t aware of or aren’t confident enough to use. Buying a pass allows you to get on and off whenever and wherever you want, without having to purchase another ticket. Lots of freedom in that.

It’s important to understand the difference between water bus (vaporetto) and water taxi. The water bus is inexpensive public transportation; whereas the water taxi is an expensive private-hire form of transportation. It typically costs 100 euros or more to hire a water taxi.

If you are looking for a great selection of places to stay with discount prices, visit
Hotel in Venice for more information.

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rick-steves-italyMy friend Diane suggested that I go to Rick Steves’ site and download some free Italy audio tours of the major sights in Venice, Florence and Rome. These are recorded versions of the highlights from his guide books. They are designed to give you a private walking tour, and are so descriptive that it pays to listen in advance. As with his TV programs, Rick provides a nice blend of history, architecture and regular life.

I took Diane’s advice and was glad that I did. However, due to my personal preference of just walking around looking at things without necessarily “learning” as I go, I didn’t actually use the audio tours in the way they are intended. Instead of listening to the tours as I walked through neighbourhoods in Venice, Florence and Rome,  I listened to them before and after my actual wanderings.

I find that I can’t fully immerse myself in the experience if I’m trying to take in all the information while walking. So what I do is listen to the tour the night before in my hotel room, and then if I have time, listen to it again after the day’s outing. Hearing a review of what I’ve just seen helped me to understand and assimiliate the information.

So what’s included in these audio tours? Currently there are three major cities in Italy that Rick has recorded tours for: Venice, Florence and Rome.

Rick’s Venice Audio Tours  feature the Grand Canal Cruise, St. Mark’s Square, St. Mark’s Basilica, and Frari Church.

The Florence Audio Tours take you on a tour of the Renaissance Walk, Accademia and Michelangelo’s David, and Uffizi Gallery.

The Rome Audio Tours include the Colosseum, Roman Forum, St. Peter’s Basilica, Sistine Chapel, Trastevere Walk, Jewish Ghetto Walk, Ostia Antica, and Pompeii. I found the audio tour of the Sistine Chapel particularly valuable, as it explained how to get the most out of viewing Michelangelo’s famous ceiling.

Like so many things these days, there are myriad ways to access these audio tours. I downloaded them onto my iPod Touch directly from the RickSteves website. You can also get the Rick Steves Audio Europe app, or download them to any mp3 player.  The app is perhaps the easiest and best experience if you have an iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch, or Android.

One thing I should mention: there are two disadvantages to listening to the audio tours on your mp3 player as opposed to a device like an iPhone. First, you won’t see the pictures. But frankly, you won’t be missing much because the audio tours actually don’t include many pictures; they just have the occasional still photo to illustrate the audio.

The second disadvantage is that the chapter breaks and subheadings may not show up. But that’s not a big deal; basically it will work just fine. After all, you’re going to be looking at the real thing as you walk around, so why would you want to have your head down looking at pictures on an electronic device? :)

Get the Rick Steves Italy audio tours here

 

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